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Flurries of flavour at Foley’s, Fitzrovia
A client once told me in a Paris bar that if you order an Old Fashioned, you’ll always have the respect of the barman. “Sod the barman,” I said, inwardly, because they were a client after all. “If I’m...
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A secret in Southwark: sunshine food at Lupins
A few weeks ago we went on a double date to Smokestak with our friends Maxine and Rich, who were up for the weekend from Bristol. As normal people who don’t feel compelled to Instagram their dinner or...
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It’s pretty up the pickle at Searcys
“I feel a bit sorry for the Gherkin,” said Mike, who had correctly guessed where his second surprise birthday meal was as soon as we’d emerged from Liverpool Street Station. “Remember when it went up...
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The Cambridge Street Kitchen is the jewel in Victoria’s crown
There’s a common phenomenon in London wherein you find yourself in a restaurant’s facilities and think, ‘Ah. I’ve peed here before.’ I call it déjà loo. Restaurants here change with such whirlwind...
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Padella: believe the hype
I am so, so late to the Padella party, it was almost barely worth me turning up. Almost. With plaudits from professional critics, local bloggers and the Tripadvisor crowd, if you set store by that sort...
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The vegan menu at Gillray’s steakhouse is worth missing meat for
After a disastrous evening out at Fed By Water, a really shit vegan pizzeria, I was reluctant to go out and spend my money on any more animal-free food. Especially when I have just recently perfected...
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Chinese New Year at Yauatcha
Happy Chinese New Year! So begins the Year of the Dog, which apparently is amicable and kind, cautious and prudent. I’d be quite interested to know how the Dog ended up being the emblem of caution and...
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Ultra-fusion at Osh, Knightsbridge
The only thing I know about Uzbek cuisine is that the last restaurant that tried it in London failed miserably and closed within six months. Now someone else is giving it a go, in Knightsbridge of all...
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Dim Sum Sundays at Hakkasan are better than brunch
I am not an anxious person, but I do get a deep feeling of unknown dread every time anyone asks me for a restaurant recommendation. The fear is that someone will go somewhere I suggest, and hate it....
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Sake no Hana, Mayfair
Although our cultures are sometimes total antitheses of each other, I think that Japan and the UK do have a lot in common. We’re both small, well-developed islands densely populated with prolific...
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